Most large-leafed plants will reach their fullest size potential with lots of water. In hot, dry weather they lose moisture through that large leaf surface. If you don’t have a pond or moist garden area, make sure to keep your plants watered to prevent foliage from looking drought-stressed.

There are some large-leafed plants that can be aggressive; such as the lotus plant, Japanese butterbur and variegated horseradish.    If you are worried about them taking over, you can contain them in pots above ground or buried. If you have cold winters, you will want to put your plants in containers that can be brought indoors during the cold months.

Elephant’s ear is a plant that can grow to be 3 feet long and 2 feet wide on stems up to 2 feet long. They come in a variety of foliage colors, from bright green to the almost-black stems of “Rubra”. They grow from a large rhizome and are not winter-hardy. You can dig up the rhizome after the leaves are damaged by cold weather and let them go dormant in a dark corner by holding back on moisture and light through the winter.

The gunnera is another monster that has leaves that can grow up to 6 feet wide. The plant can grow 6 to 8 feet tall and have a spread of 10 to 12 feet. Make sure you have room before you plant!

  Chinese rhubarb will grow beautifully in rich, moist, well-drained soil. It tolerates full sun to light shade. They will grow to 8 feet tall and 6 feet wide.

Some other plants you may be interested in looking for:  Bear’s breeches, Astilboides, Darmera and Rodgersia.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

  When you are getting started, consider the following factors:  Color, Texture and Form.  If your basket is going on a shady porch, consider choosing bright colors that will contrast with the background. Think about the size and shape of leaves. Small, round leaves will tend to give an energetic and busy look to a container and need to be balanced with larger leaf shapes to anchor the arrangement and give it some mass. Spreading, trailing plants are naturals for hanging baskets; however, don’t forget to add upright plants for contrast.

You can be as creative as you want with hanging arrangement.  Wire baskets and ordinary pots are easy to find but you can also use old kitchen colanders, football helmets, nylon bags, etc. Really, anything can be used as long as you make sure to poke small holes into the sides for drainage.

  Preformed fiber mats are readily available and can be cut to fit into a wire basket. If you prefer, you can use sphagnum moss to line your basket. The moss will require a good soaking (about 10 minutes) prior to using. Pick up handfuls of the moss, squeeze out the excess water and press firmly against the side of your wire basket. Aim for about an inch thickness, continuing up the sides and over the rim. Add a plastic liner to keep the soil in and to conserve moisture. Don’t forget to make a dozen or so ½ inch slits in it for drainage. Trim off any corners that show above the moss. Add soil as you add your plants and don’t be afraid to really cram your plants together to fill the container. Now you can hang your container and water.  Enjoy!

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

Native to South Africa, crocosmia, or “monbretia” as it is sometimes called, is a cousin to gladiolus, iris and freesia.  It has bladelike leaves that grow 2 to 4 feet tall depending on the variety and growing conditions. They tend to get taller and spread more vigorously if you don’t have to dig the corms up every year for storage.     By midsummer, an arc hing flower spike reveals tubular, star-shaped flowers that burst open in shades of red, yellow and orange. Each spike blooms for three to four weeks.

In spring, plant corms 2 to 3 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart in moist, well-drained soil. You may want to add organic matter, such as compost, to help improve your soil’s drainage.  Putting a shovelful of sand in the bottom of the planting hole is another way to improve your drainage.

Crocosmia prefers full sun, but can tolerate part shade. Most cultivars are cold-hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9 and heat-tolerant in AHS zones 9 to 4, with the exception of ‘Lucifer’, which is cold-hardy to zone 5.    A protected site, heavy mulch and sharp drainage all increase crocosmia’s chances of surviving the winter.

If you’d rather not take a chance with your corms, you’ll want to dig the less-hardy cultivars in the fall. Wait until the leaves have started to die back and gently remove the corms from the soil. Cut the foliage back to 6 inches and brush off the soil. Place the corms in a warm, dry area, then dust with sulfur to help deter rot during storage.

After they have dried for a few days, find a box with holes for air circulation. Place a layer of newspaper in the bottom. Then put down an inch of peat moss and put the corms in the box, making sure they do not touch. Cover them with another inch of peat moss.    You can make as many as three layers in a box. Mist at least the top layer of peat moss once a month to keep the corms from drying out.

Crocosmia will also grow well in containers, which is especially helpful to gardeners living in cooler areas. This way the plants can be started indoors and then moved out to the deck or placed in the garden as the weather warms.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

The pros will tell you that a bouquet looks best if it stands one and a half to two times taller than its container. However, you should experiment with different looks. Try holding your arrangement in your hand and hold it up against the container. When you are happy with the look, start snipping the stems.

There are several things you can do to help your flowers last longer:

-          Cut your stems diagonally to allow the water to run off the stem left in the garden. This helps to prevent pests and diseases. When you make the cut just above a node, you encourage new growth.

-          Recut all flower stems under water to prevent air from entering the stem and causing floppy tops. 

-          Sear stems that bleed to prolong vaselife. Hold the cut end near a flame for five to 10 seconds. This will stop nutrients from escaping.

-          Slice the ends of woody stems vertically to help them take up water faster.

-          Smash woody stems to expose the soft central core.    This allows the branch to soak up more water.

-          Before you put a stem in the vase, strip off any leaves that might be submerged in the water. If they are left on, they will begin to decompose, turning the water cloudy and smelly. If this happens, snip off the offending foliage and change the water in your container.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

Next, put in plants that like to be cut – cutting actually encourages them to keep blooming. An example would be pink roses, blue bellflowers and zinnias.

Finally, plant plenty! Delphiniums, lilies and spring bulbs, such as daffodils and tulips, all make wonderful cut flowers (you do need to cut most, or all, of the stem when you cut one).

A good cut flower is on that has a long, sturdy stem because they stand up well in a container. However, don’t limit yourself – take a look around your garden and include plants growing in the shade.    Hostas, astilbes and coral bells have blooms that last well in a container.  If you are uncertain if a plant will hold up, cut it and see.

Flowers don’t have to be big to make bouquets. Cut a few stems lilies-of-the valley, perennial geraniums, love-in-a-mist and catmint and display them in small bottles.

  Don’t forget that autumn offers asters, boltonia, sedums, fresh grass flowers and foliage and, of course, mums. In winter, cut branches of winterberries, roses and junipers and seedheads of ornamental grasses. These plants will hold up for a long time, even without water.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

You should start seeds about February 1 indoors, and you can usually have flowers by mid-summer. If you forgot to sow them until spring, don’t worry; they may not bloom the first year, but they will the next.

Border carnations go well with roses and lavender and are often associated with English gardens. The carnations bloom in June and July between flushes of rose blooms. Also, lavender has similar foliage and loves the same well-drained soil.

You can edge a garden with border carnations and, even when they are not blooming, their mounds of blue-green foliage is attractive. To get a repeat bloom out of these little gems, be sure to deadhead at the base of the stem when a flower is finished.   You will be rewarded with a second burst of blooms later in the summer.

Most border carnations are cold-hardy to at least USDA zone 5. In the colder zones, plant them against a south-facing wall or loosely cover with evergreen branches after the first frost. This will protect them from cold winter winds.

If your border carnations aren’t flourishing in the garden, it probably has more to do with the soil than the cold. Like most of their dianthus relatives, they demand good drainage. You can add a shovelful of sand to the planting hole to help improve your soil’s situation. If you have heavy clay soil, you may want to stick to container planting.

These little beauties do well in raised beds using one part garden soil, one part finely screened, well-aged compost and at least one part coarse sand or crushed gravel, mixed thoroughly together to the depth of 1-to-2 feet.

If you have acid soil, add lime at the rate recommended on the package to raise your pH to at least 6.5.   These alkaline-loving plants are not ones to grow alongside acid-lovers, such as rhododendrons.

When mulching, use gravel chips. You will want to avoid organic mulch, such as compost. Mulch that holds moisture around the base of a plant will put it at risk for crown rot.

Should your border carnation fall over (which they sometimes do), stake them with individual stakes. You can put twigs amongst your plantings and let the branches help hold the flowers’ heads up.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

Do your research and choose varieties that show good disease resistance for your conditions. Consult local botanical gardens and rose growers for specific roses that do best in your area.

1. Look for plants with a healthy, well-developed (but not root-bound) root ball. When possible, buy stock that was grown in your region.
2. Plant roses according to directions in a nice big hole (at least 6 inches wider than the container you are removing it from). Fill the hole with loose, slightly acidic soil (ideally, 6.0 to 6.8 pH) that drains well and has plenty of organic matter and nutrients. The better the soil, the healthier the plant.
3. Cut down on fungal diseases by improving air circulation. If possible, plant roses where they will get a gentle breeze. Place rose plants further apart than usual to promote air flow around plants.
4. Remove any crossing or overly-dense canes to promote air flow and prevent diseases caused by canes rubbing together.
5. Cut off any diseased leaves.    Pick up and discard and fallen diseased leaves – burn them if possible. Don’t try to compost them as spores may spread into your compost heap.
6. In order to prevent splattering soil-borne fungi onto your plant foliage, use a good layer of mulch. Organic mulches add nutrients as they break down.
7. Water wisely. For the most part, it is best to water at ground level with soaker hoses or drip irrigation.
8. Feed and water regularly and side-dress with compost throughout the growing season to promote healthy overall growth. Don’t overdo it with nitrogen or you’ll promote leaf growth over flowering.
9. If your roses get diseased, don’t panic. Think back on your growing practices and determine what went wrong.    You can always call your local county extension office for advice.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

  Caroteniods

Dozens of caroteniods are found in foods, including beta carotene, which is an orange pigment that colors carrots, sweet potatoes, leafy greens (the dark green masks the pigments), broccoli, cantaloupe, orange tomatoes, and red peppers. The benefits of beta carotene have been known for years; our bodies convert this carotenoid to vitamin A, which is essential for a healthy immune system, growth, reproduction, and prevention of night blindness. More recent research shows that beta carotene may lower the risk of several cancers.

Another caroteniod, lycopene, turns watermelons and tomatoes red, and may help protect against prostate cancer. Yet another carotenoid, lutein, is a yellow pigment that colors summer squash skin and winter squash flesh, and is present, but masked, in spinach, beans, and green peppers. Lutein seems to help prevent damage to the retina as we age.

Evidence shows that beta carotene – and other antioxidants – work best when consumed with other carotenoids, not when isolated in pill form. That suggests that we should consume more fresh vegetables rather than “supplements.” (It appears that Mother was right — eat your vegetables!)

   Anthocyanins

The pigments that make many vegetables red, blue, or violet are in a family of cancer-fighting plant chemicals called flavonoids. Anthocyanins are found in red cabbage, red mustard, red basil, purple and red carrots, blue potatoes and corn, and radishes. Research indicates that anthocyanins may also be antioxidants which neutralize free radicals that cause cell damage.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

  Water deeply – Always water deeply, but infrequently, to encourage plants to send their roots deeper into the soil. The deeper the roots go, the longer a plant can withstand drought. You can also try watering by hand for a while. This gives you a chance to see how plants actually use the water. Once you have a sense of how much water a plant really needs, adjust your watering schedule accordingly. For the most part, drip irrigation systems or soaker hoses save water because you lose less to evaporation. Some figures indicate that up to 70 percent of water from overhead sprinklers can be lost.

Another thing to keep in mind is your soil. Don’t add water faster than your soil can absorb it. If you have soil that drains an inch an hour, don’t give it 2 inches of water in that time. For the most part, sandy soils drain much faster than clay soils. To see how fast your soil drains, dig a hole several inches deep and fill it with water, then let the water drain. That will show you have fast water moves through your soil. If your soil drains very quickly, dig in organic matter to help hold moisture in the soil and cover with a layer of organic mulch. Water in the morning to prevent evaporation. Don’t overfertilize, which can leave plants vulnerable to drought stress, disease, and insect problems.

Plant Choices – Always choose plants that suit your climate. Plants that prefer steady moisture, such as astilbe, will suffer during s of drought without extensive supplemental watering. However, tough plants such as marigolds or penstemon can handle the stress of dry conditions, once established.  Also, consider native plants. They have evolved to take tough growing conditions better than many exotic plants.

   Plant Placement – Place your plants together based on their water needs. For example, drought-tolerant plants – such as lavender and salvia – can be planted together and away from moisture loving plants. This way, the supplemental watering you do will be focused where it can do the most good. It is also beneficial to plant in layers based on plant height. Layers provide shade for both the soil and smaller plants, and help to reduce runoff because water moves through the plant foliage before falling to the ground.

   Design – Look at how water flows through your yard. When you work with contours, you can direct the flow of water toward or away from different areas of the yard, or groups of plants. If your yard is flat, consider adding berms or a sunken area to control water runoff.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.

  To avoid sun damage, observe the following guidelines:

Apply sunscreen liberally and often. There is no such thing as a “grace period” before applying sunscreen. Apply sunscreen every 30 minutes before going into the garden, then every two hours thereafter.  Just like brushing your teeth, you should make applying sunscreen part of your morning routine. You can not apply liberally enough – cover every exposed area and use a sun-protective lip balm. Apply protection to the tops of the hands, even if you wear gloves for most chores. Even if your brand states it is waterproof, remember that sweat and water will decrease the product’s effectiveness. 

The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or greater, and that has broad-spectrum protection to block both UVA and UVB rays. For gardeners at high risk of skin cancer, those especially sensitive to solar radiation, and those who garden at high altitudes or in the Sun Belt, extra protection provided by SPFs of 30+ is warranted.

Cover up. Whenever you garden, wear a wide-brimmed hat at least 4 inches in diameter. Baseball caps and visor do not protect the neck, ears, and lower face. If you can see light through a fabric, UV rays can get through as well. Tightly woven clothing in dark hues offers the most protection. Some manufacturers have even produced specially treated clothing to optimize UV protection.

  Wear sunglasses. Garden with UV-blocking glasses that shield eyes and the sensitive skin around the eyes. Not only do ultraviolet rays play a significant role in cataract formation and macular degeneration, the lower eye lids are one of the most common spots for basal-cell carcinoma. Tight-fitting wraparound glasses offer the best protection from UV rays (as well as from bugs and brambles).

Avoid gardening in sunny locations for long periods of time. If you must work when the sun is most intense (between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.), confine your chores to your shadiest beds. To help limit your time working in sunny areas, take a timer with you to the garden.

Don’t be fooled by shade. Ultraviolet rays are plentiful on cool, breezy days, not just on hot ones. Smooth surfaces nearby, such as water or pavement, reflect the sun’s rays, as well and can cause the UVB rays to bounce around and affect even shaded areas.

Be aware of sun/drug interactions. Some medications make skin more susceptible to sunburn. Check with your physician or pharmacist on any medication you are taking.

For more ideas, visit our website at delightinyourgarden.net.